|The original costume, 2009|
How I did it: I tweaked the pattern I've used for the Dore a little again, then cut out the pieces from the leftover fabric. For this corset I gave hip gussets a try, because I needed a little extra space in the hip and lower back edge.
I inserted the busk and then sewed the pieces together using the sandwich method previously referenced. At the back edge I pressed the fabric over and top-stitched right next to the edge to finish each half. I created bone channels as usual, except I left out some of the mid-panel bones because the panels were not really wide enough at the waist to accommodate an extra bone. It is boned with 1/4 in spirals and 1/2 in flat steels. Then I attached the binding in a similar way to what I did for the black underbust, by machine sewing the binding to the outside then flipping it to the inside and top-stitching from the outside to create a nice stitch effect (the inside is slightly messier looking because there is a flap of fabric that was excess from the binding, but nobody has to see the inside now do they?). I also sewed a simple rectangle of fabric to function as a modesty panel behind the lacing (no bones in it, just fabric that I usually have to have someone else help me straighten out before and after tightening the laces).
What I learned: Hip gussets are awesome. Gussets in general are a wondrous thing for the curvy woman.
What I might try next time: Gussets in the bust. I am wondering how that could affect the support and shape up top.
Final Thoughts: This corset turned out great and is as useful as the black underbust. It does have a more drastic shape and a little less mobility, but it is still fairly comfortable for several hours wear and dancing and moving around.
|Photo copyright Fran Eber|
My First Corset (Black Mid-bust)
The Do-Everything Corset (Black under-bust)
Claymore Corsets (White over-bust)
Old Pants Deconstructed Corset (Tan under-bust)